Mustang In Style

DAY 1

Arrive Kathmandu

Arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you'll be met and receive a private transfer for the short distance into central Kathmandu and to the charming Dalai La Boutique Hotel in the heart of the lively Thamel district. You'll be given a briefing on your forthcoming adventure, and in the evening you can take dinner at your leisure in one of the many cafes & restaurants in Kathmandu.

PLEASE NOTE: A special permit is required to enter Upper Mustang. In order for us to obtain permits for you, we have to present hard copies of your passport (scans are not accepted) by 1000 hrs. to the permit issuing office. The permit office is open Sunday-Thursday, Friday Mornings, and all day Saturday. The permit office is also closed on Nepali Public holidays. Please anticipate that you may require extra days in Kathmandu as a result in order that we can obtain your permit, unless you arrive this day on an early morning flight.

Accommodation: Superior Room, Dalai La Boutique Hotel - Kathmandu
Included Meals: None

DAY 2

Fly to Pokhara, drive to Kushma

A private transfer to the airport for the early morning 25-minute flight to Pokhara. Your adventurous overland journey to Upper Mustang begins. You’ll be travelling in a Toyota Land Cruiser, which is the best available 4WD vehicle of its type in Nepal. From Pokhara Airport, today’s drive is relatively short, thus allowing for any flight delays. Out of Pokhara, a metalled highway winds its way up through the Himalayan foothills, and in just around 90 minutes, you’ll reach your overnight destination, the somewhat rarely visited small town of Kushma in the Annapurna foothills. If there have been no flight delays, then you should arrive at Kushma in time for a leisurely lunch. Kushma is spectacularly located astride a steep gorge above the Kali Gandaki River, which began its journey in Mustang. However, your accommodation is peacefully located on its own private and extensive grounds away from the town. To reach this exclusive resort you cross a 500m long suspension bridge that’s 200m above the river below. Here you’ll enjoy the comforts of a well appointed deluxe safari style tent and perhaps relax in the evening warmth on your verandah before taking dinner at the resorts restaurant.

Accommodation: Deluxe Safari Tent, The Cliff @ Kushma
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 3

Drive to Thasang

Driving into the lower reaches of the Kali Gandaki Valley, you begin to ascend, and beyond Tatopani, you get tantalising glimpses of the Nilgiri Himal. Climbing further, the mesmerising peak of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna's come into view. Things then begin to level out as the Kali Gandaki Valley broadens out. A detour then winds its way quickly up to your overnight halt and the comfort of the spectacularly located Thasang Lodge. The lodge is perched high above the valley, and looming immediately above you is Dhaulagiri in all its splendour. Across the valley are the Nilgiri peaks and the Annapurna’s.

Note - There’s the option of adding a wonderful second night at the spectacular location of Thasang in order to get even closer views of magnificent Dhaulagiri and its dramatic glacial icefall, as well as broader views across the valley to Annapurna and Nilgiri, by taking a short excursion up to the small, sacred lake of Sekong. The lake is a serene but dramatic place to enjoy a leisurely picnic and can be reached either by jeep and a very short walk, or as a delightful day trek from Thasang, which takes around 5 hours return. See our Best Day Walk in the Himalayas article for more. Altitude: approx. 1750 m; driving time: approx. 4 hrs.

Accommodation: Thasang Comfort Lodge - Thasang (Naurikot/Larjung)
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 4

Drive to Kagbeni via Marpha

Today, everything changes! Back down to the valley floor and onto the jeep road, which now rises less acutely up towards Jomsom. You soon reach the well-kept village of Marpha and can explore Marpha on foot. Pretty soon the trees start to disappear and as you approach Jomsom virtually all vegetation disappears abruptly, marking the furthest extent of the Himalayan rain shadow. On your right, the sharp peak of Nilgiri South is more spectacular than ever before, and you have now crossed through the Himalayas and onto the Tibetan Plateau. The arid landscape of the Mustang region is stretched out before you in the form of the upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki. Not only has the landscape changed, but the culture has changed too, and the villages will now have a distinctly Tibetan flavour to them. An hour or so beyond Jomsom, your overnight halt tonight is in Kagbeni. Typical of villages in the Mustang region in terms of architecture, along with Tibetan buddhist monuments and symbols, Kagbeni is where the restricted area of Upper Mustang begins and Lower Mustang ends. To venture further special permits are required. You should arrive at Kagbeni in time to enjoy some on foot exploration of the village and local area. As well as spectacular views, particularly striking is Nilgiri South, the narrow cobbled streets, traditional homes and nearby Gompa provide a taster of what is to come. Look skywards and you may see Lammergeirs and huge Himalayan Griffon Vultures soaring effortlessly on the thermals. Altitude 2810m, Driving time approx. 2.5 hrs.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room, Annapurna Red House Comfort Lodge - Kagbeni
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 5

Into the restricted zone and to Charang

Today’s journey into the wild, arid, and weirdly eroded landscapes of Mustang includes many opportunities to stop and explore along the way. First up is the Gurung village of Tangbe, As well as traditional Buddhist monuments, there are around 40 “cave-like” houses, giving this tiny settlement an almost prehistoric appearance. Reaching Chhuksang (Chusang) as well as the village, it’s the weathered landscape of ochre and brown cliffs that’s quite unique and fascinating. A short distance away, as you approach Chele, your attention may be drawn to a number of “sky caves” across the valley. Passing Chele, the road now climbs away from the valley floor, first to the Taklam La (3624m) and then higher to the Dajori La (3735m). This is a spectacular viewpoint, particularly if you look back towards whence you came with the peaks of the Annapurna range and Dhaulagiri on display, reaffirming the sensation that you really are in the high lands that lie beyond the “Himalayan wall”. As you descend towards Samar, the familiar colours associated with the Mustang landscape have a noticeable addition: green! This is due to the number of poplar trees that thrive here, adding all-year-round colour to this otherwise barren and hostile landscape. There are still several passes to cross on this incredible journey, including the Bhena La (3860m), the Syangboche La (3850 m), and the Nyi La (4010 m), amongst others. Reaching the ruins of the old settlement of Ghemi, you can stop to view the longest Mani wall in Upper Mustang too. If time allows, then a short 20-minute detour to Dhakmar is highly recommended by our specialist Mustang guides. It’s a very picturesque detour amongst fields of farmed buckwheat (a Mustang staple) along with beautiful scenery too, particularly the red-coloured cliffs. From Dhakmar, a further 40 minutes of driving bring you to Charang, where you’ll spend a couple of nights in Mustang’s second largest village. But, with just 130 or so homes and around 700 inhabitants, that’s hardly large. Your “home” in Charang is the recently built Maya’s Heritage Inn. Maya is in fact “Princess” Maya, as she is the niece of the (now deceased) last King of Mustang. By Mustang standards her new Inn is quite luxurious and is certainly the “best place in town” by a long mile. Altitude 3560m, Driving time approx. 5hrs.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room - Maya’s Heritage Inn - Charang (Tsarang)
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 6

Excursion to Lo Gekar and Ghar Gompa

Away from the main route to Lo Manthang and following a side valley from Charang, you’ll head up a rough jeep track to the tiny settlement of Lo Gekar and perhaps feel like you’ve really travelled back in time to the “Mustang that was”. It’s around 45 mins driving to reach Lo Gekar (also known as Saukre). A little further and you reach the ancient, remote monastery of Ghar Gompa, which lies at an altitude of 3950m. Dating back some 1200 years, Ghar Gompa is one of the oldest and most important monasteries in Mustang. The interior of the monastery greets the visitor with tiles of Buddha Sakyamuni and Bodhisattvas. The Gonkhang is situated before the main room, the different protectors are covered with sheets and shown only once a year during a special festival. Dozens of butter lamps illuminate the main room, making the many statues even more beautiful. The main statue is Padmasambhava, to each side are his two Yoginis, Yeshe Tshogyal and Mandarava. A statue of a Green Tara may also be found in a smaller room. Returning to Charang you can visit the old former Royal Palace. Once the home of the Raja of Mustang, the ruin of the former palace is strategically located astride a hill. It’s a steep, short hike up to the palace and although it is now dilapidated, there are great views from here and the small chapel and armoury (now a museum) are open to the public. On display are the blackened, macabre hands that are said to belong to the Master Builder of the palace. As a mark of respect they were cut off after his death and placed there in his honour. Another story says that they were cut off while he was still alive so he would never build another. There’s also a Gompa in Charang you can visit if you wish too. The “local monastery” is around 500 years old. The inner walls of the main temple are painted with murals depicting the deities of the Medicine Buddha mandala. The Ani Gompa to the rear looks like it’s falling over a cliff and is in fact a “nunnery”.

Accommodation: Maya’s Heritage Inn - Charang (Tsarang)
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 7

Excursion to Yara

Lying on the eastern side of the valley, it’s only recently that Yara has been connected by a jeep track. So, for centuries, the only people to pass through Yara were those plying the historic caravan route between Tibet and India and the few hardy trekkers who dared to venture into Mustang. But even now, it’s fair to say that Yara is “off the beaten track” and still seldomly visited by tourists. There’s a real sensation of being in a mountain desert at Yara, although this timeless, traditional Mustang village is ingeniously irrigated, so the sculpted, terraced fields afford some greenery to this otherwise “martian” landscape. Consequently, Yara remains a bit of a hidden gem with a unique blend of culture, history, and beauty. The houses in Yara are built with mud and stones, and the roofs are made of wooden planks. The village has narrow lanes and alleys, and houses are built close to each other. The architectural style of the village is distinct and reflects the rich cultural heritage of Yara in Upper Mustang. The people of Yara are primarily engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry. The village is known for growing barley, wheat, and buckwheat. Some locals also rear sheep, goats, and yaks. The people of Yara are friendly and hospitable, and they are renowned for their traditional lifestyle and culture. Expect to take lots of photographs as you explore Yara and the surrounding area on foot.

Accommodation: Maya’s Heritage Inn, Charang (Tsarang)
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 8

Over the “windy pass” to Lo Manthang

From Charang it’s only a shortish drive today to reach the fabled walled “city” of Lo Manthang. It is somewhat small for a city. It is a large village, really of less than 200 homes and around 875 people. Ideal for exploring on foot and so you’ll be able to spend the afternoon doing just that and see the various monasteries of Lo Manthang and former Royal Palace. Your accommodation in Lo Manthang is once again by far the “best place in town” and compared to the homes of the local people is very much a luxury place to stay. Altitude 3810m, Driving time approx. 2 hrs.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room - Royal Mustang Resort - Lo Manthang
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 9

Chossar Caves and the Kora La

The road to Lo Manthang now extends even further north to the border with Tibet at the Kora La (4660m). Whilst you are not allowed to enter Tibet from here, this journey by road out of Lo Manthang to the Kora La and through a truly wild landscape is quite something. From Lo Manthang it’s about 2hrs driving to reach the Kora La, from where there are expansive views into Tibet and back across the wild lands of Upper Mustang. You may well have never felt so far from “ in your life up here. Heading back, you’ll then visit the famous sky caves at Chossar. Also known as the Shija Jhong Cave, the cave system here is actually man-made and is believed to date back to 800 B.C. or perhaps even earlier than that. The cave system is a five-storey structure perched on the edge of a precipice. There are over 35 “rooms” and multiple ladders lead to higher levels, which makes exploring the caves rather “interesting”. From here it’s only around 45 mins driving time back to Lo Manthang, so if time allows, you may be able to visit a nearby monastery at Niphu, as well as the ancient settlement of Dhuk from where there are also fantastic views back across Mustang to the Annapurna’s.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room - Royal Mustang Resort - Lo Manthang

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 10

Off the beaten track around Lo Manthang

A seldom-used farm track takes you north-west out of Lo Manthang to explore some very rarely visited traditional settlements. To reach the furthermost village at Nyamdo is a mere 30 minute drive, so you may decide to make today even more interesting and hike back to Lo Manthang, which only takes around 2 hours, although as you’ll be hiking at around 4000 m, you still may wish to avail yourself of your Land Cruiser. As well as Nyamdo, there are other tiny settlements to explore, including Namgyal and Thinggar. At the former, there’s the Gelup Sect Monastery of Victory, which is well worth a visit. The purpose of today most of all is to give you an insight into the real lives of the handful of people who call this very remote and isolated part of the world home. Even now, with the advent of a basic road network, life up here is quite simply tough. With just a little imagination, you may appreciate the hardy nature and resilience of the people of Upper Mustang, who have lived for centuries with no connection to the rest of the world other than by horse or on foot, which was in itself an arduous journey of many days. Our Mustang guides tell us they very, very rarely come across other tourists (or indeed vehicles) on this day.

NOTE - At certain times of year(approximately May–September), there is the possibility of visiting and meeting a nomadic tribe of herders. Usually, these nomads make their settlement about an hours drive from Lo Manthang. Of course, being nomadic (and indeed one of the few remaining nomadic tribes left in the world), they are not always here in Mustang, as during the summer period the tribe has made the long and arduous, perilous journey on remote trails across high Himalayan passes all the way to Dolpo. If their journey was a commercial trek it would certainly be described as “off grid” and attract a strenuous grading for the most experienced trekkers only. Their nomadic lifestyle is not set by watches, clocks or calendars, so their presence in the Lo Manthang area should never be assumed and ascertaining if they are actually there is far from straightforward in advance. Some years the tribe hasn’t arrived in Mustang until July and some years they have left earlier than usual. As such it is best left to your guide to find out once you’ve reached Lo Manthang if they are in the valley. However, if your guide is aware that the nomads are in the vicinity and you’d like to take the opportunity to visit them and find out more about their increasingly rare way of life you can substitute Day 8 or Day 9 of this “example only” itinerary to accommodate such a visit.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room - Royal Mustang Resort - Lo Manthang

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 11

A long drive to sacred Muktinath

There is a sense of privilege being in Upper Mustang, but also a sense of reality too and one reality is that as far as roads go, there is only one way in and one way out. So, today you travel back on the road that brought you to Lo Manthang. There’s no doubt about it, today is a very long drive to reach Muktinath. However, if you prefer, the journey can be split over two days, thus requiring an additional night en route. But, again a Mustang reality needs to be considered and that is that there are no accommodations of a comparable standard to the places you’ve been staying in except Charang and overnighting in Charang again makes little sense due to its proximity to Lo Manthang. A “sorta kinda” halfway point is the village of Chhuksang. Here there’s the welcoming, family run Braka Guest House. OK, it’s not The Ritz, but it does at least provide proper beds as well as simple en suite facilities and is the best option there is. An overnight in Chukksang also affords additional time available to visit a Himalayan salt mine from Chukksang by taking a detour up to and beyond the tiny, quaint village of Tetang. Of course if you opt to do the journey in one day you already know it’s going to be spectacular, but as you’re now driving towards the mountains rather than away the perspective is still different. To keep things interesting you can head up to Muktinath on a route via the village of Jhong and visit the Sakya Pa Gompa in Jhong. This route also affords panoramic views of the Annapurna’s, Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri and the infamous Thorung La. Muktinath is a sacred place of pilgrimage for Hindus and Buddhists alike. For trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit trek, the sight of Muktinath after crossing the 5416m Thorung La and a long day of 10 hours hard walking is naturally one of welcome relief. Altitude 3800m, Driving time approx. 7-8 hrs.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room - Lo Mustang Himalaya Resort- Muktinath

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 12

Jharkot, Lupra and to Kagbeni

It’s probably some relief that today’s drive is very short after yesterday's longer affair. So, there’s plenty of time to explore Muktinath and see its sacred temples before leaving. On the way, you’ll also stop at the fascinating villages of Jharkot and Lupra. The latter has a rare Bon Po Gompa, and the villagers here are mostly Thakali. Tomorrow, you’ll be flying from Jomsom to Pokhara.

So, while this example itinerary indicates that tonight is once again spent in Kagbeni and would subsequently drive to Jomsom Airport the following morning, there are other options too. We have simply selected Kagbeni as a default option, as the Red House Lodge here is the only place in the area that would maintain the “In Style” theme of this Mustang adventure.

There are in fact one or two reasonable guest houses in Jomsom itself, which would put you in very close proximity to the airport for tomorrow’s early morning flight. In fact, walking distance. There are good views of the mountains from Jomsom. Nothing else, and Jomsom itself is not so nice in our opinion. particularly when considering where you’ve just been. Rather, Jomsom is more of a transport hub. A lot of domestic tourists stay in Jomsom (on their way up to/down from Muktinath) nowadays and much prefer to get hammered on cheap booze and play very loud “boom, boom” music than enjoy the Himalaya. This is perhaps not the most pleasant of places to spend your final evening in the Himalayas.

However, if you’d like to experience somewhere new and rather different too, then we know a rather secret place that’s very much a “hideaway” sort of place. In fact it’s a working farm, an apple farm, to be precise. The farm is about 30 minutes by vehicle from Jomsom and is tucked away on the opposite side of the main valley to Jomsom in a more secluded side valley that most tourists probably won’t know exists. On the valley floor beneath soaring, forested hills is Chimley Orchard Farm. Here in this hidden valley the peace and quiet is deafening. There’s a small mountain lake at Dhumba, a short walk away. The accommodation here, which consists of just four en-suite rooms must not be thought of in terms of a hotel or guest house. The farm owners built these cosy, creature comfort rooms with commercial visitors to the farm and friends and family in mind to use every now and again. So, it’s unlikely you’d find Chimley Orchard Farm in any tourist accommodation directories. Chances are if you chose to stay at Chimley, you’d be the only people staying here. Of course you’re not entirely alone. Your guide will be with you and the farm arranges for a person to prepare meals for guests too. Of course being tucked away in a peaceful, “secret” Himalayan Valley on an Apple Farm isn’t everyone’s ideal. But, there’s no denying that for those who prefer somewhere secluded and dare we say it, “romantic”, then this is a very appealing and rather unique option.

Please let us know which option would be your preference when you enquire.
Altitude 2800m, Driving time approx. 3 hrs.

Accommodation: Deluxe Room, Annapurna Red House Comfort Lodge - Kagbeni
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 13

Fly to Pokhara

It’s just a short drive to the air strip at Jomsom for the early morning 18-minute flight back down to Pokhara. It may be a short flight (remember, it basically took you two days to drive it), but flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna is nothing short of stupendous. From Pokhara Airport, you’ll receive a private transfer to the secluded, famous Fishtail Lodge. The remainder of the day is at your leisure to relax by the lake or poolside at the Fishtail Lodge and soak up the expansive views of the Annapurna range, saunter into Pokhara and enjoy the atmosphere of Pokhara’s many lakeside bars, cafes, and restaurants, or even take a rowing boat out on the lake.

IMPORTANT- You may wish to consider adding some extra nights in Pokhara as a contingency for this trip, whether it be for any delays or cancellations that can and do occur for internal flights, or any difficulties that may arise on the trip, which are always possible on this very adventurous journey.

Accommodation: Palm Court Deluxe Room, Fishtail Lodge, Pokhara
Included Meals: Breakfast

DAY 14

Fly to Kathmandu

A short private transfer to Pokhara Airport for the 25-minute flight back to Kathmandu. A private transfer will take you from the airport back to the Dalai La Boutique Hotel. The remainder of the day is at your leisure, so there’s still time for some exploration of Kathmandu and last-minute souvenir hunting. However, you may also wish to consider some additional contingencies for this trip, whether it be for any delays/cancellations that can and do occur for internal flights or any difficulties that may arise on this adventurous trip.

Accommodation: Superior Room, Dalai La Boutique Hotel - Kathmandu
Included Meals: Breakfast

DAY 15

Depart Nepal

A private transfer will take you to the airport for your return international flight.

Included Meals: Breakfast

Of course there's no reason to depart today, your Nepal holiday can be readily tailor-made