Kathmandu to Lo Manthang

DAY 1

Arrive Kathmandu

Arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you'll be met and receive a private transfer for the short distance into central Kathmandu and to the famous KGH Hotel in the heart of the lively Thamel district. You'll be given a briefing on your forthcoming adventure, and in the evening you can take dinner at your leisure in one of the many cafes and restaurants in Kathmandu.

PLEASE NOTE: A special permit is required to enter Upper Mustang. In order for us to obtain permits for you, we have to present hard copies of your passport (scans are not accepted) by 1000 hrs. to the permit issuing office. The permit office is open Sunday-Thursday, Friday Mornings, and all day Saturday. The permit office is also closed on Nepali Public holidays. Please anticipate that you may require extra days in Kathmandu as a result in order that we can obtain your permit unless you arrive this day on an early morning flight.

Accommodation:  KGH Hotel - Kathmandu
Included Meals: None

DAY 2

Drive to Nuwakot

You’ll be picked up at the KGH Hotel and begin your Nepal adventure travelling by private vehicle towards the Langtang Himal, the rural foothills of the Himalayas, and the beautiful hillside village of Nuwakot. It's around 4-5 hours of driving on a mountain road, and when you reach the 2000-metre pass, you'll be greeted with panoramic Himalayan views. You'll be staying at the Famous Farm. A former Newari Manor House, tastefully converted to provide atmospheric accommodation. It has its own large, private hillside gardens with great views over the Trisuli River Valley below, as well as a vegetable growing area. There are ducks, chickens, turkeys, and goats running around the gardens.

In the afternoon, a member of the Famous Farm staff will take you on a little walking tour of Nuwakot village and its environs. You may appreciate visiting the school here (the local kids will be happy to see you all), as well as the small school for deaf and mute children (the only one of its kind in Nepal). Outside the main school is a large, flat area that the kids use to play. You will be made very welcome to join in and play too if there's a kickabout going on, a spot of skipping, or whatever the local children are up to. English is taught at school in Nepal from an early age, and the local kids will be very, very pleased to try out what they have learned. Of course, interactive cultural encounters cannot be manufactured, but our staff will be very happy to help you or your family engage with the friendly people of Nuwakot. Enjoy a tasty Nepali dinner at the Famous Farm, and as we have an open kitchen here, by all means pop in and see how Chef Shree Ram and his team prepare typical Nepali cuisine.

Accommodation: Nuwakot, The Famous Farm
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 3

To hill top Bandipur

After breakfast, you'll travel to Bandipur by private vehicle (approx. 3–4 hours). Following the highway for a short while, you then turn left to ascend a mountain road that climbs up around 900m into the hills on the southern side of the Trisuli River Valley. Here lies the small, peaceful, ancient Newari mountain town of Bandipur, which occupies an enviable 'eagle's nest' location perched high in the hills with uninterrupted views over to Manaslu and the Annapurna’s. Your accommodation here is located in the heart of the town in a welcoming pedestrianised area. From the terraces of the Old Inn, there are commanding views of the Himalaya, and there's a very relaxed feel about Bandipur. In the afternoon, a member of our staff from The Old Inn will take you on a familiarisation walk around Bandipur.

Accommodation: Bandipur, The Old Inn
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 4

Chitwan National Park

You now leave the middle hills of Nepal and travel down to the Terai, towards the border with India. The Terai arc forms the lowlands of Nepal, some of which are almost at sea level and certainly couldn’t be more different from the high mountain ramparts of the Himalaya and Upper Mustang. The people of the Terai are predominantly of the Tharu tribe, and it is believed they originally came here from the Thar Desert region of India and Pakistan. Again, this is rather different from the inhabitants of Mustang, who originate from the other side of the Himalaya in Tibet. The Terai is mostly farmland, or, as is the case with Chitwan National Park, dense sub-tropical jungle.

You should arrive in Chitwan after around 4 hours of driving and in time for a late lunch. Later in the afternoon and before sundown, you’ll take a short jeep safari with a Chitwan guide to the National Park itself to hopefully get some glimpses of the wildlife that calls Chitwan home. Needless to say, as this is an example itinerary of a customizable adventure, you can add more days to Chitwan if you’d like to spend more time wildlife viewing.

Accommodation: Chitwan, Into The Wild
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 5

To Kushma and the Himalayan foothills

Leaving the lowlands behind, you’re now heading for the Himalayas. From Chitwan, you’ll take the main road to Pokhara, which is reached in around 4 hours. Here in Pokhara, you’ll be joined by a Snow Cat Travel Guide, who will accompany you on your journey from this point until you return to Pokhara. Indeed, one of the rules for gaining entry to the restricted area of Upper Mustang is that you must be accompanied by a licenced guide. Leaving Pokhara and now in a 4WD vehicle (made in India), a metalled highway winds its way up through the Himalayan foothills, and in just around 90 minutes, you’ll reach your overnight destination, the somewhat rarely visited small town of Kushma. Kushma is spectacularly located astride a steep gorge above the Kali Gandaki River. However, your accommodation is peacefully located on its own private and extensive grounds away from the town. To reach this exclusive resort, you cross a 500-metre-long suspension bridge that’s 200 metres above the river below. Here you’ll enjoy the comforts of a well-appointed deluxe safari-style tent and perhaps relax in the evening warmth on your verandah before taking dinner at the resort's restaurant.

Accommodation: Kushma, The Cliff@Kushma
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 6

To Marpha

Driving into the lower reaches of the Kali Gandaki Valley, you begin to ascend beyond Tatopani, and you get tantalising glimpses of the Nilgiri Himal. Climbing further, the mesmerising peaks of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna's come into view. Things then begin to level out as the Kali Gandaki Valley broadens out and you rise more steadily to reach Marpha. Long a stopoff for trekkers following the Annapurna Circuit, Marpha has always been known for being a well-kept village and will be your first indication that things are becoming distinctly more Tibetan. You can explore Marpha, which is also renowned for apples, so if apple pie is on the menu tonight, then try it. It’s delicious.
Altitude: 2750m approx., Driving time: 5–6 hrs.

Accommodation: Marpha, Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 7

Into Upper Mustang

Rising steadily, pretty soon the trees start to disappear, and as you approach nearby Jomsom, virtually all vegetation disappears abruptly, marking the furthest extent of the Himalayan rain shadow. On your right, the sharp peak of Nilgiri South is more spectacular than ever before, and you have now crossed through the Himalayas. The arid landscape of the Mustang region is stretched out before you in the form of the upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki. Not only has the landscape changed, but the culture has changed too, and the villages will now have a distinctly Tibetan flavour to them. An hour or so beyond Jomsom is Kagbeni. Typical of villages in the Mustang region in terms of architecture, along with Tibetan Buddhist monuments and symbols, Kagbeni is where the restricted area of Upper Mustang begins, and to venture further, special permits are required. Look skyward, and you may see Lammergeirs and huge Himalayan Griffon Vultures soaring effortlessly on the thermals. Once you’ve had your permits checked at the police post at the edge of Kagbeni, you’re driving into Upper Mustang proper. First up is the Gurung village of Tangbe. As well as traditional Buddhist monuments, there are around 40 “cave-like” houses, giving this tiny settlement an almost prehistoric appearance. Reaching Chhuksang (Chhusang) as well as the village, it’s the weathered landscape of ochre and brown cliffs that’s quite unique and fascinating. Altitude: approx. 3020m; Driving time: approx. 5 hrs.

Accommodation: Chhuksang,  Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 8

Acclimatisation in Chhuksang

As you’re now just above 3000 m, it’s essential that you give yourself every opportunity to acclimatise. To achieve this, it’s a good idea to do some physical activity, but most definitely not overdo it, as this would be counterproductive to the acclimatisation process. Consequently, there are a couple of options to consider, but they will also depend on how you’re feeling at this altitude and in consultation with your guide. There’s nothing to stop you from doing nothing and just enjoying being in the village, or just taking a little drive up to Tetang. A straightforward, moderate walking option would be to head across the Kali Gandaki River bed to the opposite side and follow a trail up to a rarely visited monastery at Gumbakang. This is a round-trip trek of around 4 hours in total.

Accommodation: Chhuksang,  Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 9

To Charang

Leaving Chhuksang a short distance away as you approach Chele your attention may be drawn to a number of “sky caves” across the valley. Passing Chele the road now climbs away from the valley floor, first to the Taklam La (3624m) and then higher to the Dajori La (3735m). This is a spectacular viewpoint, particularly if you look back towards from whence you came, with the peaks of the Annapurna range and Dhaulagiri on display, reaffirming the sensation that you really are in the high lands that lie beyond the “Himalayan wall”. As you descend towards Samar, the familiar colours associated with the Mustang landscape have a noticeable addition: green! This is due to the number of poplar trees that thrive here, adding all-year-round colour to this otherwise barren and hostile landscape. There are still several passes to cross on this incredible journey, including the Bhena La (3860m), the Syangboche La (3850 m), and the Nyi La (4010 m), amongst others. Reaching the ruins of the old settlement of Ghemi, you can stop to view the longest Mani wall in Upper Mustang too. If time allows, then a short 20-minute detour to Dhakmar is highly recommended by our specialist Mustang guides. It’s a very picturesque detour amongst fields of farmed buckwheat (a Mustang staple) along with beautiful scenery too, particularly the red-coloured cliffs. From Dhakmar, a further 40 minutes of driving bring you to Charang, where you’ll spend a couple of nights in Mustang’s second-largest village. But, with just 130 or so homes and around 700 inhabitants, that’s hardly large. In Charang, there’s also the option of upgrading accommodation to Maya’s Heritage Inn. Altitude: 3560m; Driving time: approx. 5 hrs.

Accommodation: Charang,  Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: BLD

DAY 10

Ghar Gompa to Lo Manthang

Away from the main route to Lo Manthang and up a side valley from Charang, you’ll head up a jeep track to the tiny settlement of Lo Gekar and perhaps feel like you’ve really travelled back in time to the “Mustang that was”. It takes around 45 minutes of driving to reach Lo Gekar (also known as Saukre). A little further, and you reach the ancient, remote monastery of Ghar Gompa, which lies at an altitude of 3950m. Dating back some 1200 years, Ghar Gompa is one of the oldest and most important monasteries in Mustang. The interior of the monastery greets the visitor with tiles of Buddha Sakyamuni and Bodhisattvas. The Gonkhang is situated before the main room, and the different protectors are covered with sheets and shown only once a year during a special festival. Dozens of butter lamps illuminate the main room, making the many statues even more beautiful. The main statue is Padmasambhava, and to each side are his two Yoginis, Yeshe Tshogyal and Mandarava. A statue of a Green Tara may also be found in a smaller room. Back down to Charang it’s only a shortish drive today to reach the fabled walled “city” of Lo Manthang (3810m). It is somewhat small for a city. It is a large village, really, with less than 200 homes and around 875 people. Ideal for exploring on foot, and so you’ll be able to do just that and see the various monasteries of Lo Manthang and the former Royal Palace.

Accommodation: Lo Manthang, Mustang Family Guest House 
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

DAY 11

Chele via Ghyakar

Again, we must stress that this is an example itinerary that can be customised, so you can readily add extra days at Lo Manthang to explore the area further. If you do, then there are various opportunities, from visiting the sky caves at Chossar to heading to the Kora La (the border with Tibet) to short hikes following lesser-used trails and tracks to visit various small settlements and ancient monasteries that can be found in the Lo Manthang Valley area. At certain times of the year, there is the possibility of visiting and meeting a nomadic tribe of herders. Usually, these nomads make their settlement about an hour's drive from Lo Manthang. Of course, being nomadic (and indeed one of the few remaining nomadic tribes left in the world), they are not always here in Mustang, as during the summer period (approximately May–September), the tribe has made the long and arduous, perilous journey on remote trails across high Himalayan passes all the way from Dolpo. If their journey was a commercial trek, it would certainly be described as “off grid” and attract a strenuous grade for the most experienced trekkers only. Their nomadic lifestyle is not set by watches, clocks, or calendars, so their presence in the Lo Manthang area should never be assumed, and ascertaining if they are actually there is far from straightforward in advance.

Leaving Lo Manthang, there’s only one way ultimately back to Jomsom Airstrip. Lo Manthang to Jomsom in a day would be a really, really long drive. So, today, in order to allow you to have time to keep exploring the wonders of Mustang in an unhurried manner, you’ll overnight in a different village and again “escape” the road to get off the beaten track. From the road you can walk or be driven to the isolated village known as Ghyakar (3560m).

With the coming of the road to Lo Manthang missing out on Ghyakar altogether, the changes that the road connection brings haven’t really happened at Ghyakar. So, there remains a distinctly mediaeval Tibetan feel to it. Ghyakar is a very small settlement of farmers and sheep herders. As it’s got that “off the beaten track” feel to it, it’s another good place to gain a sense of “the Mustang that was”. Indeed, polyandry was a practise here until recent times. Maybe it still is. It’s another area where blue sheep (the favourite prey of the snow leopard) are often seen too. It’s then a very short drive to Chele, a small, typical Mustang village (3050m).

Accommodation: Chele, Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 12

Drive to Jomsom

As it’s only around 3 hours by road to Jomsom, once again there’s no hurry, so you can stop “as you wish” along the way to revisit things you passed on your way to Lo Manthang or anything that catches your eye from the perspective of travelling in the opposite direction.

So, whilst this example itinerary indicates that tonight is in spent Jomsom as this would be your own custom, private adventure you don’t have to stay in Jomsom unless you really want to. It is simply the nearest place to the airport for tomorrows flight. In fact walking distance. There are good views of the mountains from Jomsom, nothing else and Jomsom itself is not so nice in our opinion. Particularly when considering where you’ve just been. Rather Jomsom is more of a transport hub. A lot of domestic tourists stay in Jomsom (on their way up to/down from Muktinath) nowadays and much prefer to get hammered on cheap booze and play very loud “boom, boom” music than enjoy the Himalaya. This perhaps not the most pleasant of places to spend your final evening in the Himalaya.

However, if you’d like to experience somewhere new and rather different too, then we know a rather secret place that’s very much a “hideaway” sort of place. In fact it’s a working farm, an apple farm to be precise. The farm is about 30 minutes by vehicle from Jomsom and is tucked away on the opposite side of the main valley to Jomsom in a more secluded side valley that most tourists probably won’t know exists. On the valley floor beneath soaring, forested hills is Chimley Orchard Farm. Here in this hidden valley the peace and quiet is deafening. There’s a small mountain lake at Dhumba a short walk away. The accommodation, which consists of just four en-suite rooms must not be thought of in terms of a hotel or guest house even. The farm owners built these cosy, creature comfort rooms with commercial visitors to the farm and friends and family in mind to use every now and again. So, it’s unlikely you’d find Chimley Orchard Farm in any tourist accommodation directories. Chances are if you chose to stay at Chimley you’d be the only people staying here. Of course you’re not entirely alone. Your guide will be with you and the farm arranges for a person to prepare meals for guests too. Of course being tucked away in a peaceful, “secret” Himalayan Valley on an Apple Farm isn’t everyone’s ideal. But, there’s no denying that for those who prefer somewhere secluded and dare we say it, “romantic”, then this is a very appealing and rather unique option.
Altitude 2800m, Driving time approx. 4 hrs.

Accommodation: Jomsom, Mustang Family Guest House
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 13

Fly to Pokhara

Time for the early morning 18-minute flight back down to Pokhara. From Pokhara Airport, you’ll receive a private transfer to your hotel. The remainder of the day is at your leisure to enjoy the atmosphere of Pokhara’s many lakeside bars, cafes, and restaurants, or even take a rowing boat out on the lake. However, you may wish to consider some additional contingencies for this adventure and schedule an extra night or two in Pokhara to allow for any delays or cancellations that can and do occur for internal mountain flights to or from Jomsom or any difficulties that may arise on the adventurous journey in Upper Mustang itself.

Accommodation: Pokhara, Hotel Karuna
Included Meals: Breakfast

DAY 14

Fly to Kathmandu

A short private transfer to Pokhara Airport for the 25-minute flight back to Kathmandu. A private transfer will take you from the airport back to your hotel in Thamel. The remainder of the day is at your leisure, so there’s still time for some exploration of Kathmandu and last minute souvenir hunting.

Accommodation: KGH Hotel - Kathmandu
Included Meals: Breakfast

DAY 15

Depart Nepal

A private transfer will take you to the airport for your return international flight.

Included Meals: Breakfast