Set in the heart of Kagbeni on a narrow cobbled street with real Mustang locals for neighbours, this is the simplest of 'comfort' lodges we've stayed in (and we've seen just about all of them). The lodge qualifies as 'comfort'', as the simply furnished bedrooms have proper beds and simple en suite facilities. Nonetheless, this place beats the basic 'teahouse' hands down. Would you rather get into a cold sleeping bag up here at the start of the high Tibetan plateau at 2800m, or a comfy bed, made cosier by the very welcome addition of electric blankets? Thought so. Being here is all about being at the very edge of the 'forbidden zone', and having the opportunity to experience the Tibetan-influenced, remote part of Nepal. The views from the lodge's roof are to die for. In one direction, the Nilgiri peaks loom large; in the other, the arid, steep-sided Kali Gandaki Valley leads into Upper Mustang. The staff here are super friendly and helpful; the food is very good and plentiful; and the best bit is that you're a part of Mustang Kagbeni, not an observer.